Review in a few: A Braccetto, Earl's Court

If I had a penny for every casual, modern Italian restaurant that has opened over the past few years, I’d have… at least a couple of quid. Okay, that analogy didn’t work. What I’m trying to say is: there are more of them than one can shake a stick at. And listen, I’m not complaining because, well, I quite like elastic trousers.

A Braccetto in Earl’s Court is one of the latest, and first impressions are cheery. Bright, airy and easy to find, with marble worktops, period accents and a broad yet concise menu, it’s the type of approachable place that should please every Tom, Dick and Karen in the group chat. And so far, my sister and I are thoroughly enjoying buttered slithers of squidgy white toast crowned by chubby little anchovies with our Campari spritz. Soon, the crisp La Piccante pizza topped with rocket, Calabrian sausage and fior di latte, and fresh pappardelle tossed in lamb ragu arrive, alongside a lovely waitress wielding a block of Parmesan.

But as I sip my Gavi to prolong the time between now and ‘when’, I catch a glance at something that floors me. There, printed at the top of our neighbour’s receipt are two words I never expected to see here: Spaghetti House. ‘A new concept the owners are trying out,’ chirps the waitress. Of course I feel a bit bamboozled, but the truth is, once I realise I haven’t keeled over, we go right back to having a pretty nice time, enjoying the pleasant, al dente ribbons of pappardelle and pizza as thin as the nation’s patience for Jack from MAFS.

A niggle tells me I should run for the hills, cleanse myself of my chain restaurant sins. But then, the feather-weight tiramisu arrives and we inhale it in 15 seconds flat. Our next dish? My hat. I suppose I should probably eat that, too.

242 Earls Court Road, SW5 (a-braccetto.com)