Marilyn Monroe visited with her husband, Arthur Miller; Sir Winston Churchill was a regular with his oil paints; a young Joan Collins posed there in her ho pants; and Errol Flynn, Noël Coward, Sean Connery, Vivien Leigh and Ian Fleming all checked in… It’s fair to say, Jamaica Inn has some serious history and glamour in its roots.
While the world around this 65-year-old beach resort might have transformed (my ride from Kingston brought in such treats as cement plants, KFCs, a Chinese-built motorway and the Red Stripe factory) thankfully, Jamaica Inn remains untouched to the human eye, preserved in a perfect state of bliss.
On arrival, guests are greeted with a friendly ‘Welcome home’, a lovely sentiment that briefly confused me thanks to the deranging fog of jetlag. After a good 10-hour sleep, we headed to the Sea Shanty terrace (named by Churchill) for breakfast, which turned out to be a luxurious affair. Pink tablecloths, silver service for the jam and butter and zebra fish circling for tossed toast in the crystal waters just below. I strongly recommend the omelette; my wife made ecstatic noises at the warm banana cake.
What of the room? We took one of the Verandah Suites: it had good AC, a very comfy bed, a deep bath (a rarity on the island) and, most excitingly, an open air living room leading right to the crescent-shaped private beach. Jamaica Inn has 53 rooms, all housed in beautiful single or double-storey blue Italianate buildings, but if you’re feeling spenny, three separate cottages are available. To help ease guests into the gentle, old-school swing of things, there are no TVs — but why would you need one? There are cocktail parties, croquet classes (glass of rosé optional), yoga sessions, boat trips, an ocean-view spa and a Bond movie on the beach every Thursday (Dr No screened while I was there). Most evenings start and end at the wood-panelled, club-style bar with punchy rum punches and, according to my wife, expertly made Negronis. For the full experience, dress up and enjoy the three-course dinner served on a candlelit terrace under the stars accompanied by a live reggae band.
The special magic of Jamaica Inn is its relaxed, family-like atmosphere — and I don’t mean screaming kids everywhere (no under-10s allowed). I’m referring to things like the long-serving staff: manager Sherlene, who has been at Jamaica Inn for a mere quarter century, told me about the late bartender Teddy, who worked here for 65 years from the age of 16. The laid-back beach grill is named in his honour and is a great evening spot to eat jerk chicken pizza from the wood-fired oven while sinking your toes into the sand. Personal touches include complimentary mid-morning drinks (Planter’s Punch, fruit smoothie) delivered to your sun lounger, and afternoon tea (finger sandwiches, fresh cookies and live piano music). And then there’s Shadow: an excitable one-year-old black Lab who can’t wait to be your BFF.
A small thing: be sure to book the right Jamaica Inn. There’s another in Cornwall, made famous by the Daphne du Maurier novel, which I’m sure is delightful, but… well, it’s not exactly the Caribbean one.
Seven nights B&B at Jamaica Inn from £2,700pp for two sharing, including return flights and transfers, via Original Travel, 020 3582 4990 (originaltravel.co.uk)
The perfect week in Jamaica
Tom Barber, co-founder of travel specialist Original Travel, says Jamaica is perfect for those who want more than just a beach. Here are his must-sees…
Kingston Dub Club
Old-school Rastafarians dance side by side with city hipsters and on Sunday evenings it plays the best of roots reggae in a chilled outdoor event. Come with an open mind and you’re guaranteed a great time
Hiking in the Blue Mountains
Reaching altitudes of 7,000 feet, these peaks offer breathtaking views. The ideal environment for growing some of the world’s best coffee, it offers lots of chances to sit back and enjoy a cup or two.
Harbour Street Craft Market, Port Antonio
The fruit and veg section here is truly spectacular: there’s an incredible variety of bananas alone. The crafts section is packed with finds, from carved wooden objects to dolls and ceramics.
Reach Falls
Less touristy than Dunn’s River Falls, this spectacular sight is the backdrop to the famous love scene from Cocktail. The natural pools beneath the lush canopy make this spot feel like a real adventure in the jungle.